A WEEK IN THE PROVENCE... | © Helen Ploderer-King | |
Page 1 Lavender, sun flower fields, market stalls, fresh fish, Brandade de Morue, Tapenade, Pastis at noon time, laughter of men and women enjoying themselves is only part of life in the Provence. Enjoy the Provence in a week or ten days on a low budget and having visited one will return again and again to discover the yet to be discovered hidden treasures. The best accommodation is a self-catering Bed and Breakfast where you can intimately enjoy a light evening meal with a glass of wine or your own breakfast. There are thousands of places to stay and different websites to search on. Most Bed and Breakfasts also offer, at an extra charge a typical French breakfast with croissants and a choice of breads, homemade jam as well as a Table d'hôte served by the owner. The Provence starts in Orange. If you start your trip in this area you can visit such magnificent places as St. Remy de Provence, Les Baux de Provence, Sablet, Vénasque, Nyons, Nimes, Arles, Gordes, Roussillion, Uzès, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Avignon leisurely in one week. France is famous for its markets and it is worth one's while to visit a few during your trip. In the northern Provence area the loveliest and most intriguing due to the ambience and goods offered are Vaison la Romaine, St. Remy de Provence, Orange, and Carpentras to name just a few. Visit Orange on a Thursday with the world renowned Roman Theatre and the Arc de Triumph. There are several public parking areas in the city centre. A tour of the Theatre, with the individual hand monitored, multilingual, guided tour, is extremely interesting providing further detailed information for those wanting to learn more in depth. The clean and safe city is animated with the local inhabitants and has been extremely well kept and restored over the past 10 years. The local market, on Thursdays, covers the entire the pedestrian zone. On the Place de la République don't miss the shell fish monger, in front of café Pigalle, with the fresh mussels and oysters at exceptional prices as well as a stand with a small selections of olives and the typical Bandade de Morue (just right for your evening aperitif with a Côte du Rhone) in front of Jackie's shoe store. Continuing down the rue St. Martin, after the Place de la République marvel at the large selection of spices at the corner and the delicious sausage stand where you can fill your basket with 5 different kinds at a modest price. After this moving slows down to a snails pace due to human traffic. Flow with the tide to the Place aux Herbes where once again you will be delighted by the colours and scents of a variety of wares from olives, paella, fresh fish stalls and clothing. The freshly pressed olive oil by the litre, at one stand, with a multitude of marinated olives is always busy. Just at the end of the square is one of the best bakeries of the city - Levetti - with a selection of French breads with olives, nuts and herbs as well as the traditional. The market continues on the Cours Aristide Briand with a large selection of materials, clothing, baskets and fresh vegetables. For a pleasant luncheon try the Festival on Rue de la République run by David, a former florist and horticulturist who has transformed his artistic ideas into the palates of his beloved Orangeois fans. If you haven't arrived at 11:30 for an aperitif you are well advised to reserve. In front of "Mairie" or town hall follow the passageway to the left of the entrance which enters onto a beautifully restored square where the small restaurant "Espresso" has a delicious and inexpensive daily menu. Avignon is well liked by tourists and regional inhabitants for its' cultural activities. The "Pont d'Avignon" is worth looking at while parking your car at one of the lots near the river. Personally I would avoid the tour of the bridge since you are only going to get half way across it. Catch a view from the bridge from anywhere along the river path. The inner city is quite animated and what is really a delight is the Papal Palace with the monitored tour and view over the Rhone. The small streets are a pleasure for window shopping. If your pocket book allows it and looking for garden furniture the non-plus ultra for the elite of France is at Hervé Baume, 19ter Rue Petite Fusterie. Jacques co-owner of the store is a character, and his decorating ideas are worth their weight in garden decoration. After meandering through the pedestrian streets of Avignon it might be lunch time. Try "La Cuisine" where you get superb fresh produce cooked to perfection by Christine Charvet: 31 rue Saint-Jean-le-Vieux or Le Coin des Halles which has a magnificent wine cellar of white wines. A well renowned star chef restaurant is at La Mirande where the chef also gives cooking lessons and the creations leaves you with dreams of the Provence. For an Evening meal: Stop by at the Boulangerie Grandguillaume at 13, rue du Limas or the Boulangerie Trouillas at 14, place des Châtaignes for a terrific bread to accompany a French cheese.
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Returning from Avignon, to wherever you are staying, there are treasures to be found which cost less than in stores or markets known mostly only by the locals. The Provençale porcelain factory, Varages in Pernes les Fontaines, has been manufacturing since 1695 and offers a selection of Provençale table ware as varied and colourful as the Provence at factory prices. Tissus Gregoire, in Staurnin les Avignons, with its mind boggling selection of fabrics as well as ready made table cloths, cushions, and curtains is another favourite of the local population.
Tuesday is the perfect day to visit Vaison la Romain. Arrive early to get an easy parking space, preferably at the outskirts of the village and walk your way up past the roman ruin park. The market, from the main parking lot, spreads through the village streets. If time is available try to visit the Roman ruins or walk up to the medieval town with castle ruins at the top.
Do not miss going into Lou Canestou, a renowned fromagerie of the area, where Mrs. Deal, the owner, prepares an unforgettable cheese platter and while you are into the French joie de vivre don't miss the fantastic pastry shop, Pattissier Payrerol!!
St. Remy de Provence's Wednesday market is also spreads through the town. Across from the cathedral, is the perfect place to find The Provençal garlic paste maker, made in the ceramic ateliers of the area..In front of the cathedral are the fish mongers. Continue down the narrow street and arrive at the Place de la Mairie where there are spice stalls alight with the colour and scents of France as well as a kitchen ware stand at the last corner offering an assortment of small French utensils.
Eating a pleasant lunch is an occupation in France as they still enjoy a 3 hour lunch break. A multitude of venues are all over the city and a pleasant snack on a sunny day can be enjoyed on the terrace of a small Hotel de Charme, Hotel Gounod, with Bruschettas and if it happens to be your lucky day there is a fantastic band singing Piaf classics on the square. After lunch take a shopping and food break and visit the "Glanum" to the south of the city, the fascinating ruins and foundations of a Greco-Roman city, with an informative insight into the daily life from almost 2000 years ago.
After St. Remy de Provence, time allowing, try to make your way to Les Baux de Provence. A medieval village, with winding lanes leading to the top of a hill, a magnificent view over the southern area is a highlight for the day. The Grimaldi castle at the top of the mountain is spectacularly renovated with many buildings depicting life in this medieval village. One of the best restaurants of France, l'Oustau de Baumanière, lies just below the village and if time and your pocket book allows it certainly will be a highlight to dining in the Provence. Try to arrange your visits in small nearby areas, such as visiting Nyons, the olive city of the Provence and Sault, the lavender centre. Not from each other, they are both pleasant and calm. The lavender essences of Sault, diluted with water, serve two purposes, lovely aroma to your linens and a terrific anti-moth agent. Nyons is the olive centre of the Provence and the small winding streets are a pleasure to enjoy. The paper store, on a small square which dates from the end of the 19th century, is a wonder to visit. If you are ready for another day of adventure take the time to go to Arles and Nîmes. Arles is more accessible on foot than Nîmes having a rather difficult traffic system but with a large underground car park in the centre. The Roman coliseum in the centre is very well restored providing interesting information through the corridors. Shopping is pleasant especially in the pedestrian zone. The temple in a central square in the pedestrian zone is breath taking to look at with a few small cafés next to it as well as small restaurants, try an entrecote frites. Arles has a well restored Roman arena bull fights take place in June. Walking through the city is pleasant and one can visit it without spending the whole day. The small Roman theatre ruins, a few metres away from the arena, are interesting to venture into. The city has a few pleasant bistros and therefore end up your Nîmes -Arles visit at Arles for lunch, and maybe try some bull stew. Roussillon and Gordes, not too far from each other, are other small typical French Provençale villages. Roussillon is of course known for the rusty/ochre colour of the terrain, therefore its' name. The views from the town over the surrounding terrain are mystical and there are a few pleasant restaurants or bistros to enjoy a lunch before continuing on to Gordes. Gordes is perched high with a few an unique south east view over the region The old city is well restored but just worth a short walk through before returning to your quarters. Séguret, Sablet and Vénasque are left for you to discover! |
